1961 thunderbird dash3/10/2024 I mention in my original post that a person could use small screws/nuts to bolt the end back together rather than try to weld the two pieces: if you've got a spot welder, fantastic - buzz away. Please re-read what I originally posted: the only reason I split the driver's side of the frame was to avoid having to unplug the wiring loom at the firewall. Does it fasten with bolts etc, or same spot welds process as on driver’s. I’m 1000% more confident as the result.ġ) I assume we’ll have to spot weld the same points to complete installation of the replacement pad/frame?Ģ) No mention of fastening the passenger side. Sincere thanks for going the extra mile to post these. The bottom of the frame is spot-welded to the upright - you'll need to drill out spot welds or split with an air chisel More seriously they do help, but do you have a photo or two highlighting “outboard upright and lower crossmember” as actually installed? Heck, I have trouble discerning frame from it’s attached hardware. (1960-64 Ford Master Parts Catalog refers to Panel, 04320 and Pad 04290). Is their origin in history before photography ? Is the frame detailed in “Body, Trim & Sealant Assembly Manual, -4260, Figure I”. I used an air chisel to do this, but a spotweld cutter will also work… When you reassemble the dash, the split welds can be drilled out and bolted back together. This is just above the bracket that holds the lower dash to the driver's side kick panel. There are a couple of spot welds that join the outboard upright and the lower crossmember together. One trick to removing the frame is to split the frame near where the emergency brake is, so that the main wiring harness doesn't have to be unplugged to remove the dash. '63 Body/Trim/Sealer Assembly Manual AND the Electrical Assembly Manual to see how everything goes together, and with the '62 Shop Manual thoroughly study, study, and study how and where everything goes… ….I didn't have to worry about removing a pad that was securely glued to the frame… In fact, I would recommend using the opportunity to rebuild the AC and heater plenums, clean them out and replace rubber seals (which you'll have to make on your own, as they're not commercially available). Once the pad and frame are out of the car, you can also tackle replacement of vacuum lines, AC or heater parts, etc. I used an air chisel to do this, but a spotweld cutter will also work. You will have some contortionist positions to assume in order to remove nuts for wiring harness retainers and other hardware. The best thing you can do before taking on this job is to get copies of the '63 Body/Trim/Sealer Assembly Manual AND the Electrical Assembly Manual to see how everything goes together, and with the '62 Shop Manual thoroughly study, study, and study how and where everything goes. The radio speaker will have to come out in order to access the retaining bracket hardware at the forward center of the dash, where it bolts to the firewall. It will be helpful to remove the seats and steering wheel, as well as the shifter and turn signal levers, in order to have plenty of maneuvering room. The wiper control cable knob and retainer will need to be removed and the cable slid out of the way. The dash trim panels, moldings, knee rails, etc. Wiring and lights can be unplugged from the back of the cluster. You will need to remove the instrument cluster assembly, but this can be done once the pad/frame assembly is removed. This made the task of replacement much easier because I didn't have to worry about removing a pad that was securely glued to the frame. I was fortunate enough with my '63 to had purchased a mint original pad still mounted to the frame in the mid-'80s. As you may know, the reproductions are of '61-'62 styles with the outboard ends not spread out as far as the late '62-'63s. You are better off to remove the dash pad AND frame in order to preserve the pad.
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